The magic of Sandaga, the New Sudanese market in Dakar, is on display

The exhibition at the Italian Cultural Institute runs until 14 July. The history of a place symbol of resilience and reconstruction is celebrated

ROME – “Dem Dikk/Viavai”, an exhibition born from a research project on Sandaga, the historic market in Dakar, is hosted until 14 July by the Italian Cultural Institute in Senegal. The structure was built between 1933 and 1935 in neo-Sudanese style. As the Italian embassy recalls in a note, Sandaga was once an iconic place and the beating heart of Dakar, which hosted over 900 sellers of a variety of products, from food to crafts. There are several theories about the origin of its name. Among the most widespread is that which states that the name of the market derives from “dang ga”, a reference to a tree that embellished the surroundings and served as a point of reference.

“DEM DIKK/VIAVAI”

Despite being included in the list of protected national heritage sites of Senegal in 2006, and despite having resisted the elements of time and a fire in 2013, the press release underlines, in August 2021 the Sandaga market was demolished, ending its rich and colorful history. The site specific exhibition ‘Dem Dikk/Viavai’ therefore tells the lively identity of this historic market in Dakar, symbol and heart of the informal economy, which lives and survives, despite its complete demolition and the current ongoing reconstruction. The project, under the curatorship of Mohamed Cissé, includes the work of the Italian artists Stefania Gesualdo, who has lived in Dakar for several years, the duo Jukai >(Marta Fumagalli and Riccardo Pirovano), currently based in Berlin, and Djibril Dramé, Senegalese visual artist.

Jukai presents the series of works ‘Social Architectures’, through which he explores the link between man and the built environment, using concrete as the central artistic medium. Through materials recovered from the market construction site, the works capture the daily interaction between human beings and the urban context, reflecting the impact of small actions on the surrounding reality. In addition to the concrete works, Jukai transformed the movement data recorded in Sandaga into an installation of light pulsations, the rhythm of which corresponds to the vitality of the market. Across the dimly lit room, the interactive installation encourages visitors to reconsider their relationship with consumerism and the complex socio-cultural dynamics that influence our lives. If through his work Jukai focuses on the human impact on the surrounding environment, Stefania Gesualdo’s works instead explore how urban transformations influence people and territories. Using the Sandaga construction site as an emblematic symbol of transition and adaptation, the series ‘Recherche d’une position confortable’ (Search for a comfortable position) narrates the complexity of daily life in constantly evolving spaces. In these contexts, the search for a comfortable position becomes a metaphor for resistance to destruction and construction. This permanent negotiation between territories and people is narrated in the tapestry presented by Gesualdo which depicts, in the upper part, the mythical facade of the market, and, in the lower part, one of his life scenes made up of exchanges and relationships that fluctuate and adapt . The tapestry was the subject of a performance through which the artist completely removed the façade of the market, leaving only the vendors visible who remained to carry out their activities, guardians of Sandaga’s memory. Finally, Djibril Dramé presents photographic shots of life scenes from a particular corner of the market: ‘Ruuk diskettes’. This is a place where teenage girls and women from Dakar go to adorn their wardrobes with sensual effects. Despite being separate from the main building, Ruuk diskettes is now an integral part of the market. Djibril’s mother was a saleswoman in the area. Through her works, the artist wishes to pay homage to her and all the traders for their resilience, comparable to that of the Sandaga market. “Through interactive, sound and visual installations, the artists have expertly captured the complexity and vitality of the Sandaga market, offering an intimate and engaging look at its unique atmospheres and the stories that make it so loved and significant for the Dakar community” underlines Cisse. “This exhibit not only celebrates the past and present of Sandaga Market, but also its future, embodying the hope and determination of a community that continues to thrive despite challenges.” The curator again: “With ‘Dem Dikk/Viavai’, we join the narrative of this iconic site, promoting its legacy and unique beauty for future generations.”