“Life, death and pickpockets”: the “alternative” guide of Rome of the Guardian

The guide of Conn Iggulden, one of the best-selling historical novelists in the world: "I have loved Rome all my life"

ROME – “I have loved Rome all my life”. I went there for the first time when I was 10 years old, to stay in a convent”, writes Conn Iggulden in the preface – for the avoidance of doubt – in the Guardian. One of the best-selling historical fiction authors in the world dedication to a slightly alternative guide to visiting Rome, very personal. The piece – here’s the possible misunderstanding – ends like this: “Rome is ancient and modern at the same time. Life, death and pickpockets”. Because the last time – he says – “I was mugged at the Circo Massimo metro station. Honestly, it was a privilege to meet such professionals. Fagin would have called them “good boys” – all right, good girls, if you want the truth. No violence, ladies and gentlemen. It looked more like street theater, even if the ticket price was a bit high.”

Iggulden’s Rome tries to avoid the usual monuments, “Rome has wonders around every corner. Yes, there is too much graffiti, but after all it is a living place.”

“Every visitor should stop at the building known as the Pantheon for two reasons. One is to touch the granite columns that support the entrance. These are unique pieces, each weighing approximately 60 tons. They were mined in Egypt and transported here by ship and land more than 2,000 years ago. If you enter, you will see the oculus, the circle in the center of the dome open to the sky

The Tiber Island – the island of the Tiber – can be reached on foot, across the 2,000-year-old Ponte Fabricio. A half hour’s walk away, in the Testaccio district, is what is commonly known as the English Cemetery, or Protestant. It’s a peaceful place, with some of the most beautiful tombs I’ve ever seen.

The Aventine Hill, not far from the cemetery, is one of the original seven. Today it is a wealthy neighborhood, with beautiful homes and schools. High up, on Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, there will probably be a queue to watch from the Aventine Keyhole. As a side tip, walk a short distance to the Giardino degli Aranci to enjoy the view of the city without queuing.

After lunch, we walked to an old favorite that is, to me, the very definition of “macabre.” At the Crypt of the Capuchins (entry €10). The next day we visited the Domus Aurea, the folly built by Nero after a fire destroyed much of the city and freed up much land. Enjoy more of Bernini’s sculptures at Villa Borghese, have a picnic at the Circus Maximus, visit the Colosseum, Trevi and all that, but walk in the hills and see these places too.”